The following is from a thread of emails generated by the question: "Would the group be interested in a discussion on paddle feathering?"

Richard Henley started it with...

When I first started kayaking, (late last year), for the sake of simplicity, I didn't feather the paddle blades. I was recently able to go kayaking, for the first time this year, and since it had been awhile since I had been paddling, I thought this would be a good time to try feathering and give it a good try. I paddled around Newport Harbor for a couple hours with the paddle set for a 60 degree offset, and seemed to do reasonably well. When paddling with the paddles feathered, to control the left paddle blade, I use my right arm and bend my right elbow while keeping my right wrist straight. In experimenting with the paddle, it seems that it isn't much more difficult to do a 90 degree feather than 60 degree. I wished that my paddle also had a 90 degree offset so I could try 90 degrees with the paddle shaft locked in place.

Frankly, it seems generally easier and simpler to paddle with unfeathered paddle blades.

The following are some of the issues as I currently see them:

Feathered paddle:

• Less wind resistance to forward and following winds - more wind resistance to side winds.
• More complicated asymmetrical use of paddle.
• More likely to incur either wrist injury or elbow injury.
• More difficult to learn and use strokes, braces, and other skills.

Non-Feathered paddle:

• Less wind resistance to side winds - more wind resistance to following winds.
• Simpler symmetrical use of paddle.
• Less likely to incur wrist or arm injury.
• Easier to learn and use strokes, braces, and other skills.

It seems that wind resistance would be a moot point, since statistically wind could come from any angle. But is that the case in real-world circumstances? It seems that it would be an advantage to have symmetrical use of paddle. It seems that it would take a lot longer to achieve a balanced set of paddle skills with a feathered paddle. I understand that Derek Hutchinson and Wayne Horodowich both endorse feathering, and especially 90 degree feathering. These two individuals seem to be committed, experienced, and responsible leaders in the kayaking community, and it seems prudent to give their opinions serious consideration. One would expect that there are good sound reasons for them to favor feathering. Does anyone know why? In a related question, Is it true that Derek Hutchinson refuses to accept people in his classes who do not have feathered paddles? If so what would be the reason? Lots of people go to the trouble to learn to use feathered paddles - one would assume there must be an offsetting benefit(s). Exactly what is it? I understand that the Eskimos didn't normally use feathered paddles, although they used a narrower blade design.

If one feathers, what angle is the best? 60 degree currently is the most popular, but there are proponents of other angles, such as 75 degrees. It seems that 90 degrees would be most practical feathered angle, in terms of keeping track of the paddle blades, and for anything other than 90 degrees, it would seem that it would be more difficult to keep track of the blades, especially under difficult conditions. It seems that 90 degrees requires the most arm movement to place the blade correctly in the water for a forward stroke. It is difficult to find off-the-shelf paddles other than 0 degree/60 degree.

It seems that a normal paddler should be able to adapt to any forward stroke blade angle in a relatively short time. The main problem with feathering seems to be increased difficulty in bracing and non-forward stroke uses of the paddle, especially in difficult conditions, as well as a potential for injury if poor technique is used. It looks like 90 degree feather angle can only be done successfully if done exactly right.

If one were to adopt 90 degree feathering, is quality instruction locally available?

The reason for this inquiry at this time, is that I must make a decision as to whether I should feather, and if so, which angle to feather. I'm sure that, given time and proper instruction, I could learn any practical feather angle. Unfortunately, I only have a limited amount of time and other resources, therefore I am going to do, I must now begin doing it.

Frankly, at the moment, it seems that either non-feathered or 90 degree is better than 60 degree or other feather angle.

Any thoughts?

Kevin Harris responded...

Just a thought. I don't even remember why, but I initially started paddling in the full feathered position, and it very quickly became second nature. Other than the wind benefits, I don't know if it's better or not to feather, but I'd say that you should paddle with whatever position seems most natural and comfortable to you. If I try to paddle unfeathered now, I'm in the water.

I thought about it a little further, and I remembered that when I first picked up a paddle and tried it out many years ago, I initially tried it unfeathered, then after a few minutes tried it feathered. For some unknown reason, the feathered just clicked for me, and even in the beginning unfeathered felt awkward. So it has been feathered ever since.

Steve Brown responded...

I paddle unfeathered for sea kayaking, surfing, and WW, and have found paddling unfeathered is totally Inuitive. (spelling deliberate) Last year I rented a paddle for my first time in WW. The paddle was feathered 45 deg, which I think is standard for WW. Paddling was easy. Bracing and rolling on-side was easy, but not too good off-side. Off side rolls seemed to take at least two tries to make. I guess I would adapt eventually, but why?

My understanding is that 90 deg feather has fallen out of favor with all but a few diehards. I think 75 or even 60 are more common now. Of my paddling friends with rock solid rolls and bracing, some use feathered, and some unfeathered. I don't really think it makes a difference once you get used to it.

Steve Holtzman responded...

I think you should go with whichever style is more comfortable for you.

I disagree with the "Feather Paddle Issues". I use a symmetrical feathered paddle--it is not more difficult to use. The front and back sides of each of the blades are identical. If used properly, the paddle is not apt to cause injury. I keep the wrist straight and bend at the elbow. Very easy to brace on either side and since my feather angle is 90 deg, there is absolutely no question as to the orientation of the blades. If the off side blade is straight--the onside blade is flat for the brace. It's as simple as that.

I disagree with the "Unfeathered Paddle Issues"--it's whatever you are used to. I have friends who paddle unfeathered and if they switch paddles with me, we both are unstable and uncomfortable.

It seems that wind resistance would be a moot point...
It's not the wind resistance as much as it is the tendency for the off side paddle in a very strong cross wind to fly away from you. Unless the blade is perfectly on edge to the wind, it acts like an airplane wing. Since all paddles are usually angled when used (especially in a strong wind and you need additional support), all but a 90 deg feather will have a tendency to fly up. Again, this is not normal paddling conditions for most people, but rather very high winds.

If one feathers, what angle is the best?
Remember, that paddle makers like boat mfg or auto makers, produce for what the market appears to want not necessarily what's best. If strength has to be sacrificed for weight and light weight is what most people want--that's what will become the most popular. Remember most paddlers in the US, paddle on small lakes and flat water---they're needs and wants are different from someone like Duane Strosaker or George Miller who are paddling out to San Miguel Island, 37 NM away.

It looks like 90 degree feather angle can only be done successfully if done exactly right.
This is not correct. The 90 degree feather angle is actually easier to brace with than a 60. Both sides of the paddle work the same--that's not the case with my old 60 deg feathered paddles where I constantly had decide which way to turn my blades for a brace. Even if I do it wrong now, since both sides of the blade are the same---there's no harm.

If one were to adopt 90 degree feathering, is quality instruction locally available?
I highly recommend both Derek Hutchinson's class "Beyond the Cockpit" and Wayne Horodowich having taken classes from both. Additionally, I have seen Jen Kleck from Aqua Adventures paddling and know people who have taken her classes and she is also very highly recommended.

...it seems that either non-feathered or 90 degree is better than 60 degree or other feather angle.
I agree but there are many people who paddle very well with a 60, or 70 deg feather as well.

Steve Brown responded...

I knew it was important to pick a method and stick to it. It was easier for me to master unfeathered than feathered, so I picked it. Also, I wanted the option of paddling with a Greenland style paddle without a major adaptation of my paddling style.

Also, I believe (can't prove) that it was easier to master symmetrical bracing and an offside roll with an unfeathered paddle. An interesting data point might be to see what percentage of those who have a reliable off-side roll use feathered verses unfeathered paddles???????? That might be revealing - or not.

George Miller responded...

I have twice switched to feathering and twice switched back, because of my arthritis. Derek Hutchinson talked me into switching, in an unusually diplomatic manner, to feathering the last time and I did it for one and a half months, until the pain became unbearable.

It wasn't really any harder, once I relearned to rotate it when I braced, which took a week or two to relearn. Going back still again to unfeathered only took two days.

The only time my unfeathered paddling is a liability is

• In very high winds
• When I'm with Derek.
• Trying to rent better quality paddles

High winds in any direction except dead astern cause problems when paddling unfeathered. A 90 degree feather causes the fewest aerodynamic problems, but the most biomechanical problems.

Feathering didn't cause me elbow injuries, but trying to paddle too fast, too long did, because I used my arms and elbows too much.

I encountered 40+ knot winds up in Half Moon Bay last year, that brought me to a complete stop at times.

I sea kayak long distances, kayak surf and rock garden, with no disadvantage with an unfeathered paddle. Procedures are only slightly different-- and NO more wrist pain.

Two of my rock garden buddies-- Steve Brown and Jack Brisley (I think) paddle unfeathered- they are both much better than I am.

Steve Holtzman responded...

George,

Your comments re the controversy concerning feathered paddles are good.

I think that by example, you make a good case for paddling with whichever method feels better to the individual paddler. As you said, given a day or two of practice, you can switch from one method to the other. The only problem, is if you encounter rough conditions and/or winds during those one or two days of transition.

IMHO, the reason the Inuit did not use feathered paddles is that it is extremely difficult to carve the correct feather angle out of a stick when using hand tools. Therefore, I don't think the thought of feathered paddles ever crossed their minds. If the technology existed back then to be able to easily make a feathered paddle, I bet they would have been using both styles too. Today they hunt whales with outboard motors--the Inuit weren't anti-progress, some things just hadn't been invented yet.

Mark Alexander responded...

My 2 cents; Switch hit with an ajustable 2 piece paddle. Feather up wind, flat off wind or in tricky conditions. Switch the hands you rotate the paddle with, while you feather, for relief of tight hands, wrists and forearms. I've also noticed that I can paddle by feel slightly better as a result of regular switching.

Negatives are that the paddles are weaker, and the first few strokes after a switch can feel wobbly.

Jerry Goldner responded...

Go with the Guru's. Feather your paddle as you would your nest.

Yes, their are very good kayakers who paddle unfeathered. There are many more who use the feathered variety, with very good reason. Frankly I use the more common 60% design, but I"m not a fanatic on that point.

All the potential hazards for paddling feathered are frankly.... bogus. I know you put them out there to test the waters and get reaction, so.......

First off, with little practice, and proper technique, what seems like an awkward way to swing a paddle, becomes second nature. No thought process involved. I'll go one better and say that the proper rotation of the wrist with a feathered paddle produces a MORE efficient stroke and greater power by virtue of inertia and lowered wind resistance.

As to bracing, rolls, and the various special padding strokes required to become the COMPLETE paddler - I have never experienced any problems whatsoever, and neither will any kayaker who starts off with the correct technique. Once you have become accustomed to the orientation of the blades, your reaction in any given situation will be just as quick and effective be it 60, 90, whatever.

This stuff about the advantage and disadvantage of the feathered vs unfeathered in strong winds is a joke. I paddle in heavy winds - a lot. I enjoy the rush of heavy seas on my bow, It's humbling, and it makes you use good paddling technique - OR ELSE. The challenge of maintaining momentum in these conditions can be daunting. PLEASE don't make things that much more difficult by waving a flat blade in the air. If this were the ONLY reason for going with a feathered blade, that would be sufficient. As to the disadvantage going downwind - give me a break, With a near gale slammng you in the back and swells surfing you forward, the additional push off your flat blade is of no account. Trust me on that one.

The good doctor suggests the best of both worlds, by using feathered upwind and unfeathered downwind. Well, Mickey Mantle could hit 'em out of the park either way. I'd say that's an anomaly, and I don't advise it.

Learn to properly use the feathered paddle. I guess the key word is properly. There is much more to a good swing than just feathered vs unfeathered. All muscle groups from the legs, torso, wrists, arms and shoulders need to work in harmony. After 8 or so years of paddling, I'm still working on that perfect stroke.

Wayne Horodowich (University of Sea Kayaking) responded...

Your primary question of why are paddles feathered is best answered by racing needs. Natives never found a need to feather a paddle. I have not heard or read any reference to feathering in native paddling. As I understand the history, racers started feathering paddles for less wind resistance and getting through whitewater gates. Racing seems to be a strong driving force in what recreation paddlers decide to do. This thought process can sometimes lead the recreational paddler down a misguided path. When the sport was reborn the only paddles available were feathered at 90 degrees. Therefore, the new founders all paddled feathered (except Greenland style). I think if there were better instruction in how to properly paddle with feathered paddles the trend to unfeathered and less feather angles may not have happened to the extent we see today.

As far as injuries to the body, if you paddle incorrectly (poor technique) you can get overuse injuries with unfeathered or feathered. Many paddlers who paddle feathered have not been properly taught how to correctly index the blade when stroking on the off side. If one paddles correctly the feather angle should not make a difference.

I have had numerous discussions with many instructors and we all have our own opinions as to feather angle and switching angles. I had a great discussion with Greg Barton (Olympic Gold Medalist) about changing feather angles. I was so pleased he felt the way I did on the subject. Whatever way you paddle stick with it. If you need to change, it is due to wind. Wind makes rough conditions. You want to be paddling at your best in rough conditions. If I start to capsize I will instinctively go to my normal paddling style. Therefore, stick with one style. Spend your time getting better with one style than messing with two styles.

I began with 90 degree feather because that was all that was available. I moved to 70 degrees because that was what the manufacturers were making. I agree with Steve when he said this seemed to be customer driven. Again, I have not read any research saying 70 degree was better. The folks who had wrist problems blamed it on the feather angle rather than poor indexing technique. I went back to 90 degrees when I began using extended paddle techniques in my paddling repertoire. Yes, wind can come in any direction but I know I spent more time paddling into headwinds or going downwind. Therefore, I do get less wind resistance. In strong sidewinds, I usually paddle with a lower shaft angle because I am using supportive strokes. This way my paddle is actually spearing the sidewind. I have better control with certain extended techniques with a 90 degree feather.

Derek does let people in his class with unfeathered but he tries to convince them that if they paddle properly there are more advantages to a 90 degree feather while taking his classes. He has a harsh reputation (at times) because his stiff British humor and strong opinions and style get some people upset. He really believes if you want the best from his class and from him, try it his way for the class and them do what you want after the class.

I personally don't care what people use. I encourage feathered because some places still exist where you can only get feathered paddles for rent or if you are on a tour. I also teach them how to paddle properly.

Duane Strosaker responded...

Over the years, I've switched back and forth a few times between feathering and not. I never had any real problems with feathering, but when I didn't feather, I found fighting a head wind to be difficult. For the last four years, I have been feathering, and I plan to stay that way. However, I only like to feather with paddles in the 60 to 70 degree range.

Although my preference is to feather, it doesn't really matter to me whether other people paddle feathered or not. I think for new people in the sport, it is probably a good idea to paddle unfeathered for a while so they can concentrate on other things, especially since proper technique is so critical for feathered paddling or else injury can occur. Plenty of high performance kayaking is done with unfeathered paddles.

If is funny that when using a higher stroke angle, unfeathered paddling involves letting the shaft rotate forward in the upper hand (left or right) with each stroke, while with a feathered paddle, only the left hand has to let the shaft rotate, so really an unfeathered paddle keeps the hands busier. But with a lower stroke angle on an unfeathered paddle, neither hand has to let the shaft rotate.

Again, proper technique is very critical for using a feathered paddle or injury will occur. I could explain the proper technique here, but I'll save a lot of time by referring to the Brent Reitz Forward Stroke Video. I will say that you don't need to flick your wrist, and if you are flicking your wrist, you are going to injure yourself. Unfortunately, I see a lot of wrist flickers on the water, and they all complain about lower arm pain. Trying to get them to break the habit is like trying to get someone to stop smoking. People who can't break the habit would be better off paddling unfeathered so they can stop injuring themselves.

Steve Brown responded...

In hindsight: Over the past year or so I have elected to do all my paddling with a single piece whitewater paddle (203CM) regardless of boat or conditions (two piece spare). I use it in surf, WW, rock gardening, and touring, and have found it to work well in all conditions, especially when the wind is howling and the waves are steep. Also, nothing else will hold up to the abuse I give a paddle.

The point?
WW paddles come in 45 deg feather standard. It's a pain to find anything else. Luckily, Whetstone will make a paddle of any feather or length for only an addition $10. I hope they don't go out of business. If I had it to do all over again, I would start with a 45 deg feather. If whetstone (www.kayakstore.com) goes out of business, I may yet switch.

Greg Knight (Aqua Adventures) responded...

Your paddling technique should be the deciding factor on your feather angle. A low stroke requires less feathering, a high stroke is more efficient with a higher degree of feathering. Right now the top racers in the world are using a 75-80 degree offset.

When paddling correctly with whatever feather angle, the elbow and shoulder (not the wrist) should adjust the offside blade to get it into the water efficiently. With a good elbow/shoulder lift of the paddle and good rotation, the wrist should not bend at all.

A fun little game you can do, even just sitting on the living room floor, is take a two piece paddle and start with the blade non feathered. Holding the paddle steady in your right hand, take a stroke on your right side. After that stroke, see how much you have to rotate your right elbow and shoulder to get the left blade in the water (don't move your wrist at all). Then switch the paddle to 30, 45, 60, 75, and 90 degrees and do the same.

What you should find is that the more feathering, the higher you need to lift the elbow/shoulder, which in turn promotes more of a vertical stroke. If you are paddling in conditions where a vertical stroke is more needed (surf, whitewater, rock gardens, racing), it is going to be more efficient (and powerful) on your body with a good degree of feathering.

It is true that in whitewater, the trend has been to lower the feather angle. It has gone from 90 - 75 -60 -45, and now even down to 30. The reason for most whitewater boaters decreasing feather angles in the increase in boat angle. Modern whitewater boating is not about going down river, but about play boating, where the boat is designed to be paddled with an angle for playmove, such as cartweel, loops, split wheels, ect.

The whole conversation has not even started to address blade design (another whole can of worms).

Steve Brown responded...

Greenland paddles with a low (Greenland) stroke are extremely easy on all body parts. Unfortunately, not all boats lend themselves to that type of stroke. Betsie Bay makes a long Greenland paddle for doubles and wide singles.

Dave O'Connor responded...

I enjoyed all the recent discussion on feathering vs. non-feathering. It's particularly relevant to me because I recently switched from a non-feathered paddle to a feathered paddle. I feel I got a slight gain in efficiency but nothing monumental. One thing I have noticed is a persistent pain in my left shoulder. Mostly I've attributed this to a diminished state of physical fitness. Do to a heavy workload I haven't been able to exercise as much as I normally do and my shoulder isn't nearly as flexible or as strong as it usually is. However I'm starting to wonder if I picked up a defect in my stroke with my switch from non-feathered to feathered. I'm not aware of any stroke defect that would cause a sore shoulder but I'm not a student of kayaking. As Duane mentioned in a past post "flicking" your wrist can cause pain in you wrist and lower arm. Is any one aware of a stroke imperfection that can lead to a sore shoulder? Could poor rotation or some other defect in my stroke be a contributing factor.

Jen Gleck (Aqua Adventures) responded...

It might be an interesting exercise to consider that whitewater boaters certainly have the most reliable off-side rolls in general. Whitewater boaters paddle feathered (w/very few exceptions). They also have very reliable braces on both sides. If we're talking about reliable skills in kayaking, I think the bigger issue than feathered or unfeathered is practice and use of the techniques. THAT is what makes skills dependable, not the equipment. Whitewater boaters need to brace and roll every time they paddle. Many sea kayakers actively avoid conditions in which they might have to brace or roll. These skills go unpracticed and it doesn't matter what paddle you use! The key is repetition until bracing/rolling becomes part of muscle memory and becomes instinctive. For this to work, you must be committed to a "control hand" that does not shift position. As long as your control hand is stationary on the shaft, your body will learn exactly how to move so that the blade is flat for braces and rolls - but only with repetition! In addition, during all this practice, you will develop a feel for pressure on the paddle blade and your body will begin to figure out how to rotate the blade until the desired pressure is achieved - all without thinking about it.

I always paddle right control feathered, but I go from 60 to 45 degrees pretty easily and bigger differences without much more effort. My first few strokes upon switching from one to the other usually involve a bit of slicing, especially if I'm playing kayak polo where I need to be quick and am bracing a lot. This vanishes within minutes and the only conscious thought that goes through my brain is "oops" as I slice. My body automatically corrects its movements until I don't slice anymore. Sculling draw, sculling brace, bow rudders, and hanging draws can all help you develop the feel for the blade in the water and to train your muscles how to move to change the pressure on the blade. When you can perform a steady bow rudder, effortless hanging draw, or solid low brace all on flatwater and all without looking at your blade, your rough water skills and your adaptability to different equipment will also be strong!

On the other hand, the right equipment can go a long way towards promoting good technique (though it can never replace practice). That's why at Aqua Adventures we use and teach with feathered paddles because we feel it promotes the most efficient paddling style - hands at eye level, lots of torso rotation, short stroke from toe to hip blade close to the boat. We also promote shorter paddles for the same reason - 220cm max and 215 for many.

Duane Strosaker responded...

I have to agree with Jen on paddle length. I like the 215-220cm range too. I know a lot of people are using a 230cm out there, but that length kicks my butt. I did the "hundred miler" with a 215cm.

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