San Onofre
Pulling up to the gate shack at 7 AM....No line??? Usually it's filled up. Parking at the end where the kayakers and wave skiers are designated was no problem, there was plenty of room. This wasn't the first pay shack I had been to and through this morning. O'Neil surf contest finals were being held today. I pulled into the wrong beach access. I paid the 10 dollars and immediately as I drove in, I noticed stares were being directed my way. I rolled into a parking section where all the pro surfers that were competing that day, were gathered. A young lady lifeguard came up to me laughing and said, "Looks like you're in the wrong place.", and by the attention my kayak was receiving, I might need to be rescued from an angry surfer mob. She got me turned around, I got my 10 bucks back and headed down the road without incident.

At my designated area I met up with Jack Brisley. We both have new (used) kayaks to fit and try out today. The conditions are typical San Onofre, Large sets rolling in one after another. What a place, it's like a surfing amusement park and 10 bucks gets you an E ticket for as many rides as you like, All day long!

As we're preparing, Steve and Vicky Brown pull up, also amazed at the no-line and the parking situation. They quickly gear up and head out to the surf.

Sets are large and working your way through the breaking surf lines is a chore, but the rides are well worth the energy that it takes. We surfed around 2 1/2 to three hours and I needed to refuel. Vicky had come in earlier and Steve and Jack were right behind me....It's break time.

Steve and Vicky had their fill and take off. We both refuel and I take some pictures of the surroundings and back out we go for the second half. The surf is great and after a couple of hours we're dead tired, so we agree on one more ride. We were so drained we both ended up wet exiting at the end of our rides. Walking our kayaks back to the shore, we meet up with Hugh and his family. Hugh and his son-in-law (I forget his name) were ready to do some surfing. Jack and I rested, they geared up, and out we go for a little over-time.

After a while I head back in. Jack came in earlier and was packing up to head on home. Hugh stays out, and by the way he was looking, he wasn't going to quit anytime soon. A great full day of surfing at a beautiful perfect place.

Check out the pics.

Until next time,
    Victor (Paparazzi) Martin

Submitted on May 3, 2005