Well, just like Cabrillo lately, everything changed in a matter of minutes. Rapid swells continually rolled in, foggy skies and the occasional showers presented challenging conditions to launch. I love the aliveness here. It creates situations that demand your full attention. Paddling out is difficult and zaps your energy as waves are relentless and non-stop. Finally I make it out past the break. Looking back, I see Jack being surfed backwards and into the rocks. Then, he disappeared into what now looked like a river of rapid moving water. At the same time the large swells would block my view as they rolled crashing into the rocks and shore line. Everything was wild and stormy and it made it difficult to see. I managed to spot Jack working his way back out, but then again, he was gone. This went on for a while. It was frustrating and exhausting for even me to watch, let alone, what Jack must have been experiencing. Jack ended up back on shore. I wasn't sure what had happened. "Was there a problem with the boat? Was he injured?" I signaled, but with poor visibility, there was no response. Then I spot Jack Hiking his boat up to the top of the rocks. I thought he was leaving. Jack had reached the top of the rocky wall, about 20 feet up from the breaking water line below, and prepared to launch seal-style. This was getting interesting. Now this is one of those times, you wish you had a camera to document the moment. Conditions didn't allow this photo-opp to take place.
With a shove Jack barrels down, careening off rocks like a pin ball ricocheting back and forth with good speed behind him only to come to a stop right before the water. Jack's aware of the swells coming and sets up and timed his now rock-garden entry perfectly.
With a sigh of relief I now wait as Jack punches through the large sets and joins up with me outside the break. We survey the situation and decide it's surfing today. Jack makes this look ever so easy . I get some good pointers and try to emulate what I am witnessing as Jack rips up the place. After experiencing 360's, end-over-ends, and roll-ups, I'm on the shore draining out of my kayak and exhausted from the currents that draw and take your boat, paddle and body out, and into rocks. That's the only bummer about river kayaks. When you wet exit, and you have sets that are coming so fast, it's hard to get out before the next wave ploughs into you. Because, they are so tight-fitting, and when the current is so strong, and the boat is filled with water, it's like towing in a small sea mammal.
I now take this moment to capture some Java-Jack action This proved to be difficult as well. After taking in too many mouthfuls of sea water, I decided to try shooting from my kayak. During these wild conditions, it is nerve racking to divert your focus from your paddle and bracing to no paddle and a camera. I found myself on the edge of no return a couple of times. However, a small river boat doesn't become a broaching 17 foot log, as my sea kayak does when I'm caught by a wave. I prefer both hands on my paddle. (Whose going to come up with a helmet-cam?)
Having the whole beach to ourselves, we surfed and played until it became a little blown out and the high tide came in changing the surf into just confused, rough seas.
Another great time and experience at unpredictable, fun and very much alive place! ....Check out the pics.
Until next time......
Victor (Paparazzi) Martin