The tide was on the high side of average at over 4 feet when we launched leaving few areas on the beach with easy access. The swell interval was only 9 seconds and there was chaotic multiple break lines and a large soup zone. A lot of debris was being recirculated including some small "logs" which were big enough to ruin your day. There were a couple of well defined rips that we used as an aqua-conveyer to get outside. Surf was probably up to about 6 feet, but most of it was in the four foot range. Not exactly huge, but the short interval, the chaos, and the multiple break lines ensured that proper technique was required to make it out without being blown back in.
The four of us grouped outside to firm up our plans, agreeing to stay close together so as to be safe in conditions. By far the trickiest paddling was through what I'll call no-mans-land (NML). NML is roughly a triangular area with its three corners at the west end of Cabrillo Beach, the big red buoy (roughly 0.5NM offshore), and Point Fermin. There are numerous submerged rocks in the area which create boomers in big water and a very extensive line of rock reef that runs from about the 2/3 point out to the buoy all the way into the west end of Cabrillo.
That line was the biggest concern as waves were reaching the 8-to-10 foot range with some unpredictably breaking at random. Usually the breakers in there will carry you for a little ways and let go. On the other hand, this is the place where I was surfed (mostly out of control) for about 1/3 NM so that's not a hard-and-fast rule. Obviously we could have just paddled around the whole thing, but where's the fun in that?
Jack and I took an "inside route", while Don and Duane were running parallel to the reef with Don way far in the lead. Several times I got big air while barely cresting some really large waves. The penalty for failure would be a long struggle to work back out through these powerful breakers and possibly the breath holding contest associated with getting tumbled in a large wave. Duane became concerned that we were getting too spread out for conditions and starting trying to bring the group together. I agreed with his concern, but there was no way Jack or I was going to stop until we had crossed that line of breakers. Once across, Jack raised a paddle, I blew my whistle, and Don & Duane changed course and came across. Duane gave us a short and needed lecture on getting spread out and we agreed (again) to stay together. The rest of NML required alertness, but was easily manageable.
Some separation in big water is in order, but we were loosing sight of one another in the large seas which could have caused serious problems if someone took a swim.
Once outside NML conditions eased considerably and our group spread out. Jack went on the inside and Don, Duane and I tried to stay outside the kelp. We regrouped at Whites Point to consider going behind the reef, but whenever a set came though the whole reef structure was completely swept out. We took a look at going behind the main reef. It looked completely closed off. I knew it was possible because I'm very familiar with that spot, but it looked like getting back out might be a pain so I passed.
Before we paddled I felt cold on shore looking at the sea so I had chosen to wear my dry suit. This was a big mistake and by this point I was seriously overheated. I did one roll to cool off, but the feel of the cold water THROUGH my dry suit was enough to discourage another. I was beyond sweating. I had reached the fever like stage where getting in the cold water was what I needed to do, but the thought of it was horrifying. I knew what I needed to do, but part of my brain (apparently the part in command) just wouldn't allow it. Duane somehow figured this out and coaxed me into the water by taking a dunk and a T-rescue himself. I reluctantly followed and immediately felt much better.
It is interesting to note that Duane was also wearing a dry suit and also overheating. Apparently not to the same degree, however, probably due to the combination of my slower boat and significantly greater poundage.
On the way back we paddled in pairs with Don and Jack toward the inside and Duane and I on the outside avoiding kelp. I was slow anyway from paddling my Yukon, but even slower to try and keep my temperature under control. I felt nauseated and weak. I just wanted to be done and the surf zone and NML that had been so fun earlier in the day was causing dread at the moment. While part of my brain knew my feelings of trepidation were "fever" induced and unwarranted, that didn't seem to make me feel any better. Duane did a good job of babysitting me until we got back to NML where we all regrouped again, at one point asking me "are you going to make it?". I'm not sure what lameness in my paddling prompted that question, but I answered affirmatively.
Wind at Pt Fermin was now up to about 15 KTs. The tide had dropped so there was whitewater everywhere. It wasn't epic at all, but the combination of cooling wind and the need to focus made me feel much better. Don and I took the inside with Duane and Jack on the outside. Don found a nice kelp-free path to get us over the main reef. I'm not sure what Duane and Jack encountered, but they were pretty far to the outside. I was starting to have fun again.
Once we made the turn to the north toward shore I relaxed my paddling pace and let wind and waves do most of the work. I started cooling immediately and by the time we got to the extensive surf zone at Cabrillo beach I was already feeling much better.
We all landed without incident and some of us did it a couple of times or more for fun. The surf was down from morning and it looked like most of the debris was gone or beached as well. I tried twice to come in "under control" and both times it ended up being a combination of under control and side surfing. I'm not sure how the others faired in that respect.
Lessons learned?
I think all of us were more than up to any conditions we encountered so that was not really an issue at all.
As you might gather my lesson learned for the day was about paddling attire. Vickie had warned me before I left not to wear my dry suit lest I overheat. That was good advice that I should have followed. Standing on shore in sandals and thin clothing it is very easy to overestimate how much clothing is needed for a paddle. I didn't adequately factor in the exercise heating that was more than evident by the time I first cleared the surf zone on the way out.
A wet suit would have been more than enough for the day, being a good compromise given conditions. Unfortunately I've already learned this lesson several times in the past so, I'm hoping this one takes.
It was a fun day, the kind of day that makes me very glad to be a kayaker. Conditions were pretty mild by "storm paddle" standards, but still challenging. Being out on the water with extremely able partners on a challenging day really adds to the enjoyment for me. I'm hoping this winter continues to offer up great days like this one.
Steve Brown
Good trip report, Steve B.!
Yeah, I was a bit concerned about us being spread out and not working together as a group when I saw a 6-8 foot wave break over a reef between you (on the inside) and me (on the outside), an 8-10 foot wave break over a reef right in front of and in the path of Don (ahead of me), and Jack on the inside and out ahead of us all. At that point, we were all solo paddlers. The conditions were in our skill and experience level, but when we go out on a day like that, we'd look like idiots if anything happened to us, especially after making the beginner mistake of letting ourselves get separated. There are days and places when the safety of working together as a group is a good idea, and this was one of them. Fortunately, we did regroup and agreed on a route that was safe.
Also, the paddle was quite beautiful! I never saw the hills at the Palos Verdes Peninsula so green. It was nice seeing the clouds covering the hilltops too. As we were coming back around Pt. Fermin, Jack and I saw a whale. It just barely surfaced and spouted once.