Elkhorn Slough, Monterey Co.; Pt. Lobos
We first paddled Elkhorn Slough for the first time about 5 years ago and we thought it was time for a return trip. Elkhorn is about 20 miles North of Monterey, about half way to Santa Cruz. The hamlet of Moss Landing sits at the mouth of Elkhorn Slough and because we only scheduled one day paddling out of the 5 we were in the area, we decided to rent from the very convenient Monterey Bay Kayaks ("MBK") location in Moss Landing. After orally describing a paddle float recovery and otherwise convincing the manager we were experienced enough to rent sit-inside kayaks, we rented a Necky Looksha Sport (wife), a Wilderness Systems Tempest 16.5 (me) and a Perception Avatar (son, 15). MBK had a wide variety of boats for rent -- from Cobra S-O-T's to high-performance fiberglass and plastic decked boats. The rental equipment was in excellent condition and the very reasonable rental price included paddle float, PFD, bilge pump and, if you wanted, spray pants and shirt and full wetsuits. The day was much too warm for the latter, though we brought the spray shirts just in case.

Elkhorn is one of the most diverse wetlands areas in the country and this day did not disappoint. Last Friday (8/27) was a clear, warm and dry day and the wildlife was out in force. Most of the mammals are located within 3/4 of a mile East of the Highway 1 bridge and the put-in, so you don't have to paddle far to get your fill of sea otters, seals and sea lions. In the morning the sea otters were scarce (we saw only one) but on the return trip we were treated to four otters rolling about feeding on mollusks and preening. In the morning, docents from the National Marine Sanctuary in kayaks paddled near the "Seal Haul-Out (a large low-lying bank that is usually populated with scores of seals "resting"). The docents were very enthusiastic and answered more questions than you wanted answered and we had to find a way to eventually and gracefully "escape" their enthusiasm. I think in part they are there to help watch out that visitors don't get too close to the mammals and allow them to "get their rest." They explained in detail why that was so important. There were no crowds -- just an MBK guide-led eco-tour, 3 docents and about 6 other paddlers .. none of whom paddled past the one mile mark.

If you want to see diversity in birds -- Elkhorn is the place! We purchased a plasticized bird guide (highly recommended to know what you're looking at) and saw Red-shouldered hawks, turkey vultures, willetts, curlews, godwits, white-tailed kites, great blue herons, ospreys, great egrets, snowy egrets, American white pelicans and brown pelicans, two kinds of cormorants, dunlins, dowitchers and Stellar's Jays to name a few. And there were a ga-zillion specimens of each type! There were many more species that we just couldn't identify.

We started in the morning a little before the peak high tide for the day and paddled about 3.5 miles to Kirby Park. After about 1.5 miles, your wildlife viewing is pretty much limited to birds. But at high tide there were innumerable "streamlets" within the wetlands area and you can explore any number of them ... much of the wildlife is located in these "streamlets." These side excursions were well worthwhile. Kirby Park is a old parking lot with an old, dilapidated dock and ramp and an exceedingly gross porta potty ... but it is the only place you are allowed to get out of your boat after the U.S. 1 bridge. We lunched from 12:30 to 1:30, including a short hike, and then headed back into the prevailing Northwesterly afternoon winds. As the tide was ebbing, many little islands came alive with feeding birds. As we re-approached the U.S. 1 bridge, the harbor seals and a couple of the sea otters playfully kept popping up all around us .. . we were a little uneasy because of all the admonitions to stay away and of the threats if you got too close ... but these guys found us and wouldn't let us go. (Two years ago a friend of ours did this trip on our recommendation and a sea otter jumped into the rear tank well of her Hobie S-O-T and she couldn't get rid of it for some time!)

In short, a great day, perfect weather, a relatively easy paddle and lots of wildlife. A trip to Elkhorn Slough is a must if you are ever remotely in the Monterey-Santa Cruz area.

A word about Pt. Lobos: we didn't paddle it but while we spent last Sunday afternoon there, I noticed at the Ranger Station at the Main Gate a sign that said "Divers, Snorkelers and Kayaks sign-in" I didn't get a chance to find out if kayaking is permitted but I will make an inquiry. The Pt. Lobos area is breathtaking -- rocky shore, sea caves and arches, clear water, and much wildlife (birds and mammals) -- the stuff of which brochures are made of. I could see that it gets pretty windy in parts and the turbulence could get pretty rough (downright nasty! Like in a giant washing machine!) so its obviously not for the inexperienced. But I kept fantasizing about paddling in and around the calmer areas, like China Cove, Bird Island, Whaler's Cove and a few of the other venues that looked doable. Has anyone paddled there before?

Sandy Mayuga

Beth Powis adds...

If you paddle Elkhorn Slough, keep a close eye on the tides. If you get caught at low tide, you may very literally get stuck in the mud until the next high tide comes in enough to float your boat. That mud is worse than cement; it's like quicksand, making it very difficult for anyone to help you get unstuck!

Submitted on September 2, 2004