Surfriders to Leo Carillo
John "Skinboat" Petersen, trip host; George Miller, Navigator. Navigation was by compass and eyesight. John flipped on his GPS occasionally to check speed. Mr Skinboat learned a little bit more about his GPS from Mr Navigator,like how to use it! It would be good some Sunday at Kiddie beach,for instance,have each of us share our knowledge of navigation.

Heavy surf at Surfrider, Zuma and other spots along the way, even though swells were only 2-3 ft. Launchings all went very smoothly, with both of us skating by intermittent 5' plungers, with good timing. We passed by overhead surf off the reef.

John originally set the trip up for Surfrider to Pt. Dume R/T. When we approached Pt. Dume, he started talking about going to Broad Beach first, then he started babbling about Carrillo, but wasn't sure how far it was. We couldn't see Carrillo for at least an hour after we left Pt. Dume. We saw a paddleboarder, miles out at sea. There was moderate boat traffic- mostly fishermen.

Visibility was 3 miles early on. Actually rained lightly in the parking lot.Got quite hot and humid. Wondering if we would get that thunder that was predicted. George suggested that John strip down to his rash guard,John agreed but added, "I would feel a lot more comfortable if you let me keep my bottoms on too!". Weather was very calm, glassy seas until 1015. Wind was 15 knots, 2' wind waves in late afternoon, tailwind on the trip home. Very hazy. George was in his usual form by several times pulling ahead about 100 boat lengths before having mercy and letting Mr Skin catch up. Temperature cooled to mid 70's later on-- very pleasant.

We landed in heavy surf, had a nice lunch at the South end of Carrillo, away from surfers and bathers. Had the place to ourselves! There were six footers dumping just to the North while we had lunch. After lunch, we were able to launch between sets. We paddled along the rocks in Sequit Cove, by the scenic Carrillo bluffs and through the heavy kelp beds.

Homeward bound, we were buzzed by a fighter plane and George was repeatedly attacked by a confused, angry bee, 2 miles out at sea. Guess the bee thought the big yellow and black CD Extreme was a big bumblebee? From John's point of view,"It looked like George was having some sort of fit. He kept poking at the water. I was'nt sure if he was trying to save it from capsizing or really frustrated with me,and, in some sort of spastic,angry way,was telling me to paddle harder!"

Finally entering Surfrider beach,(that last mile seemed to be the longest) we noticed the surfers were having a ball-- there are some really talented people out there! Conditions were ideal with high surf, glassy surface and a gradual break allowing boardies to ride forever. Being later in the day though,near 5PM, can be a little more challenging for us kayakers!

Landing was chancy, the cove was much rougher than usual, but we both made it OK. George came straight in, hit terra firma, then was hit and spun 180 degrees by a larger plunging wave, leaving him facing back out to sea. John was thinking to himself,"Wow George! That was some maneuver!". He held on, managed to back paddle and held in place until the wave receded, then exited OK, almost like he knew what he was doing. John came in after, followed by a heavy set, which battered and pummeled him . "I practiced my typical, broached surf landing,which got me up on the beach,but due to the steepness of the beach I was being sucked back into what seemed to be a 4 footer. Why would'nt my rubbery Khatsalano grab the sand like she always does! I immediately leaned and high braced into the wave as it pounded right on top of me. Again,I made it up the beach. Before I knew it though,I got the chance of doing this one more time!". Somehow, "Skinboat" parried Neptune's assault, finished upright and lived to brag about it. A foot injury prevented George from running out and playing the hero, but he wasn't required, anyway.

Trip statistics:

George didn't realize that John could paddle that far. "I didn't really think he was truly in shape for it, but he must have an iron will under that genial exterior. Or, maybe it's those weekly rough and tumble hockey games".

Saw dolphins, sea lions, sunfish, jellyfish, jet skiers,fishing boats,helicopters,fighter planes,bumblebees.

Afterward, we went to the great little deli near the Malibu civic center, on Crosscreek (in strip mall --RH side). Surrounded by Lambourginis and Bentleys, frequented by the Hoi Polloi and lowly kayakers, as well-- HIGHLY recommended!

    John Petersen & George Miller>

Directions:

1 1/2 miles south of Malibu Canyon Road on PCH. You can't miss the Malibu Pier.

View map
View picture of Surfrider Beach


Submitted on July 21, 2003