Tide was about 4.5 feet and rising. The swell was smaller than expected, so there wasn't a lot to do until we passed Point Vicente. Shark Rock was the exception, but it was very easy because of the high tide. Once we rounded the Pt Vicente, the fun picked up considerably. The waves were still not large, but at 2-3 feet with very occasional 4 feet, there was plenty of energy in our usual play spots.
One good spot is the last headland before the Big Pool. It has a really nice wash-over that has from 1-to-3 drops depending on how good your line is and how lucky you are. It was very energetic today. I made several runs before flipping in the hole after the first drop. I resisted flipping with a failed brace, but eventually tucked and to my surprise, I didn't hit any rocks. I started to go for a roll, and WHACK!, I really hit my head hard, probably on the rocks that form the second drop. I also hit my elbow and shoulder, tearing the paddle out of my left hand. I think I hit my head twice and the marks on my helmet agree. I was really dazed and still being whipped around by the current as I got flushed through. I missed my first roll attempt, but eventually the current relaxed and I stopped getting banged around. I made it up on a very sloppy roll. Eric retrieved my visor which had been torn from my helmet. Sore head, very sore neck, scratch above the eye from my glasses, bruised elbow, scraped shoulder, and most painful of all, severely bruised ego.
To my surprise, after my incident, the rest of the group seemed even more interested in riding that wash-over. I have no idea what the psychology is behind that, but I think it may be similar to the way Wildebeests go back to enthusiastically grazing after the Lions have taken one of their buddies. Anyway, after regaining my composure I joined them (more carefully!).
After a few minutes we went on the the Big Pool, which was easily accessible from both entrances. We all ran it multiple times, some runs more graceful than others, some with spectacular endings going over the last drop.
We took an early lunch break inside the pool before moving on. Vickie decided to stay at the pool to do some rolling practice, and then take a nap. I think it was about 5 minutes of rolling practice, followed by a 1 hour nap.
The rest of us went on the rest point, playing in all fun spots along the way. Two that are particularly fun involve a technique similar to a seal landing a few feet above the water line. The difference is that you "land" in a small elevated pool instead of on rocks. When you're ready, you ride the falls back out and down a drop that was a much as 3+ feet today. Getting in is easy, getting out is a little harder because the current is much smaller on the outflow.
The first one of these happens to be at the west end of the reef structure that forms the Big Pool. It has the added bonus in that it has a 30 foot long, narrow channel you can ride out a different way. The way it works is that you work your way over to the opening of the channel, but can't get in because it is too shallow. Then a big (er) swell comes and floods the entrance to the channel. If you are near the opening, you are going, like it or not. Once in the channel there is really not enough room on either side to paddle properly and no possible way to stop. You soon get washed out the other side through a small drop-off into a hole.
I learned the "technique" first time though. I was thinking about taking the channel out when a swell flooded the entrance and made up my mind for me. Eric went next. I followed him up into the pool and so got a close-up of the action. At first he couldn't get in the channel, then a swell came and he was off. That hole at the end was bigger than my previous run and nearly flipped him. In those tight confines being upside-down is very undesirable. Anyway, good bracing skill kept him up. He did get some cuts on his hands on the way through so I'll bet next time he comes with gloves.
After watching his close call I was trying to move away from the channel to reposition myself and maybe re-think my options altogether. Too late - I was washed backwards down the channel, luckily with no ill effect.
The other spot with an elevated pool had a different kind of bonus - spectators. I could say I don't like to show off, but that would be a lie. We amused ourselves riding up into this pool and out again, the people on the rocks amused themselves by watching us. I think some of them got some really good photos.
Hugh got the "drop-of-the-day" when he exited this pool on the way back. He came down a cascade of water that was 3-4 feet high.
The four of us ran the front entrance of the big Pool to pick up Vickie. On the way back, we didn't play too much. We were all tired. We did play for a while at the "head whacking" spot, and I managed to flip again. This time I didn't resist. Once I started to go over I tucked quickly and went with it, rolling up before the second drop. That worked way-more better as water is a much better medium for rolling than rock.
Going behind Shark Rock on the return trip ended up being a little more interesting. Exiting from behind the rock eastbound is a "blind" turn. It's hard to see what is coming until you are committed. I left at the wrong time and heard George yell something (probably watch out) from my left. When I saw the wave I thought for sure I would get back flipped but didn't. Then I started thinking about George to my left. You're not supposed to be to my left in that spot. The current is strong and if you get flipped will likely get washed upside-down into the rocks. That's exactly what happened to me about a year ago, and I ended up taking a nasty swim. Just as I looked, George got trashed by the wave and flipped. I thought he would hit the rocks and swim, but before I was done thinking it, he had already rolled up and was paddling like mad to get out of there. Aside from a saltwater sinus douche he was unharmed.
Once back at the launch we all displayed varying levels of poor technique in our seal landing on the steep boulder "beach". I think fatigue had taken it's toll on our skills.
All were tired, but what what I call "tired good". Another great day on
the water with great friends!
Steve Brown