Catalina Express, the only commercial game in town from the L.A.-Long Beach area, does not transport ANY kayaks of ANY kind. [See my earlier Catalina trip report, September, 2001, for information on what it takes to transport your own boat across to Catalina if you don't paddle it.] Because we were going to leave from Avalon this time (as opposed to meeting the outfitter at Two Harbors), we planned on renting kayaks from the main kayak outfitter on Catalina, Descanso Beach Ocean Sports ("DBOS")(see their web site at www.kayakcatalinaisland.com). The Scouts and two of the 4 adults had limited experience and so we rented 6 Ocean Kayak Scupper Pro's and 2 OK Cabo (Tandem) SOT's. DBOS has plastic Perception Sea Lions for rent but I decided to paddle what the "troops" were going to paddle.
Let me say up front that despite my general prejudice in favor of decked boats, these SOTs were just fine, if not ideal -- for the distances paddled, and especially for the conditions. Most all of the landing sites we stopped at -- whether for rest, our campsite or snorkeling -- had large pebbles or rocks for a beach (there are only a couple of exceptions that have sand). It would have been "heart attack time" for glass/composite boats and "nervous breakdown time" if I brought my own plastic decked boat. I truly would not recommend bringing your own boat (composite or plastic) without some expectation of adding some significant dings and scratches. The ability to quickly and nimbly exit an SOT when landing a la D-Day on Normandy without having to fiddle with a spray skirt and without having to "climb out" of a decked boat is really important, even in light of the small waves and surge. Your boat will roll around on the rocks and pebbles until you can alight and drag (yes, "drag") your boat up on the rocky beaches. Better DBOS' plastic boats than your own!
We left via Catalina Express early Friday morning, arrived at DBOS, packed our camping and snorkeling equipment and clothes in the boats, then walked 10 minutes to the Vons in downtown Avalon to pick up our food and propane and other supplies (you may not transport any kind of camping fuel - propane, kerosene, white gas, etc. in any amount on Catalina Express). Really convenient not having to lug your food across the channel.
The primitive boat-in only campsites are managed by DBOS on behalf of the Catalina Island Conservancy and you make reservations to use them, whether you paddle, sail or motor to them, through DBOS. The cost is $12/night/adult. There are about 11 of primitive boat-in only camp sites on the lee side of Catalina Island, mostly between Two Harbors and Avalon. None have toilet facilities or water and everything (yes, "everything"!) must be packed in and out. The coastal ranger comes by and checks you in and verifies that you have some kind of "porta potty" facility ("wag bags," boom box, etc.) and that nothing will be buried or left behind. We were able to work with the Scouts on "leave no trace" camping. Another caveat: No open fires are permitted in any of the primitive campsites, and this includes Dura-Flame logs. The fire hazard is just too great.
Finished packing our boats and we launched at 2:00 PM. We headed West towards the campsite called Cabrillo (roughly 7 paddling miles West of Avalon). Rested and snorkeled briefly at Willow Cove after checking out the first sea cave we could paddle into just West of Toyon Bay. The tidal conditions were just perfect. Arrived at Cabrillo (just West of Goat Harbor) and set up camp within a few feet of the high tide mark. Our Site (Cabrillo A and C) was on the southeast side of the Cabrillo camping area, and there were two other sets of campers on the far end of Cabrillo.
[DBOS encourages the use of these primitive boat-in only campsites as much as possible. There apparently is some pressure from local yacht clubs and other private interests to develop some of these sites, arguing that they should be allowed to develop the sites because the sites are not being used extensively by the public. Frequent use by the public will support the continuing "need" for them to be kept as they are -- primitive and pristine!]
From the campsite over the next two days we snorkeled and hiked some deer trails to view the valley where "the deer and the buffalo roam" ... literally, we saw them both from within 50 feet. There is a large island-rock about 35' high at the West end of the little bay at Cabrillo and the boys loved to jump off the top into the crystal clear water. There are innumerable kelp beds and rock gardens along this lee coast of Catalina Island and the water is so clear -- great snorkeling opportunities just about everywhere.
On Saturday morning around 9:30 AM, while 7 stayed and played in the water around the campsite and hiked some more, I and two others paddled toward Perdition Caves and Blue Cavern Point, about 5 miles from Cabrillo and almost to Two Harbors. Along the way we paddled into about 4 sea caves between Lava Wall and Gibralter Beach. Two of them were about 90' deep. Glad I brought and shared the helmet -- one of the caves had 2 pinnacles pointing straight down waiting to impale someone's unsuspecting head. We stopped off at Ripper's Cove for more snorkeling.
Just past the Old Quarry, and as we approached Perdition Caves/Blue Cavern Point, we found ourselves surrounded by a pod of Common Dolphins for about 5 minutes. I fumbled with my camera and managed to get just 1 good picture. The tide was low and we were able to paddle safely into Perdition Cave -- a great cave with a wide mouth at one end and a long (200') tube (with a small "side room") coming out a little further to the West. Got some great pictures.
We paddled back towards the Old Quarry where we stopped for lunch and did some more snorkeling -- knew it was an excellent spot when a dive boat anchored right where we were. Saw some bass, opaleye and sheepshead, as well as innumerable Garibaldi and varous small kelp fish.
We paddled the 5 miles back to Cabrillo, met the rest of the Venture Crew and paddled over to Goat Harbor where we snorkeled out to Twin Rocks, another favorite dive spot.
The boys retired early both nights but in the fire-less darkness of both Friday and Saturday nights, the adults enjoyed the yellow glow of L.A-Long Beach-O.C. lights from across the Channel. Early Sunday morning, we paddled the 7 miles back to Avalon, turned in our boats and enjoyed Avalon (shopping, snorkeling at Lover's Cove and Casino Point, eating, etc.) before returning to the mainland. All in all a great trip and one I would highly recommend to all.
If you like camping, and even though you don't have a lot of experience in kayak camping, it's not that difficult to plan and carry off. DBOS has camping equipment you can rent so you don't have to lug everything over if you don't want to. Again, check out their web site and ask to talk to one of the co-owners, Mary Stein.
And like the brochures say, "Catalina is so near ... and yet so far!"
Sandy Mayuga