Your CKF President and his wife Diane recently had the opportunity to paddle the Na Pali Coast on Kauai. In the months preceding this adventure, I began seeking out an outfitter who might rent us a kayak or "lead" us on a trip of Hawaii’s most spectacular coastline. I was amazed at how many outfitters actually rented kayaks there.
Through my web surfing I was treated to vivid descriptions and pictures of the Na Pali Coast. If you are unfamiliar with this place, the coastline is so beautiful that Hollywood filmmakers have found it to be a favorite place to film movies. I could drop names, but I’ll let you find out first hand. Not only is it beautiful, but also it is unspoiled. Access to most of it’s 18 mile length is by boat due to the mountainous terrain.
After looking at the pictures of the Na Pali Coast, I knew I couldn’t visit Kauai without paddling this place! While several outfitters were available, few would take paddlers to the Na Pali, and only one would guide a trip along its entire 18-mile length in one day. With a little help and lots of web surfing, I came upon a kayak outfitter named "Kayak Kauai." Seemed simple enough. I was pleasantly surprised to discover that this company rented Northwest Seascape double kayaks for this trip. If you know these boats, you know they are some of the most seaworthy. It seemed that every other outfitter only rented plastic sit on tops, which are fine too, but not as fast or stable as the Seascapes. I knew that if I was going to paddle 18 miles in unfamiliar waters I wanted to be in a closed deck boat which is most familiar to me.
Kayak Kauai (www.kayakkauai.com) claims that this trip is the longest single day guided open ocean kayak trip on the planet! I’d never heard of any other outfitter hosting a longer single day trip, so I was impressed. At the same time, I was concerned. Not about Diane or me, but about a bunch of potential kayak "newbies" paddling closed deck boats in the open ocean. I could just picture the potential problems (and fun!).
Kayak Kauai publishes information about this trip. It is well written and warns newbies of the expectant dangers and fitness requirements for this long paddle. However, how many of us CKF’ers have hosted trips where no matter how much we warn, we get people unprepared for the strenuous task at hand. I was still concerned.
The plan was to arrive in Hanalei at 6am knowing that our return to the kayak shop would be around 7pm. A long day was ahead of us. We got a good night sleep and dreamt of the pictures of Na Pali.
We arrived promptly at 5:45 am. We were the first ones there except for some of the outfitters scurrying about in total darkness. Lights from inside the kayak shop promised we had arrived at the right location. Now two or three people were silently loading boats, paddles and PFD’s onto a large kayak trailer. We just went inside, paid the $140 (ouch) fee and looked at wall maps and local kayak gear in the shop. Slowly, cars started to make their way into the parking lot. Before long we were huddled into a large van headed for the beach. Everyone pitched in shuttling boats and equipment to the beach. Looking at the now visible faces and I was somewhat relieved to see a group of twelve people who looked quite fit and eager. Maybe this wouldn’t be so bad after all I thought.
The two "instructors" or guides, John and "Guava" (Joseph LaVoie) introduced themselves and gave an excellent introductory lesson to seakayaking, PFD’s and sprayskirts. Their laid-back style and humorous approach was refreshing. Their beach lesson was well done as I watched the non-paddlers in the group grasp the basics pretty fast.
We launched off a pitched beach into some small beach break surf with the assistance of a "valet" type take off. These two guys were good! I was impressed that not one boat dumped. It wasn’t long before we were in a comfortable relaxed cadence and paddling along the most gorgeous shoreline and coast I have ever seen. Conditions were good. A light chop was all we had to deal with.
Two thousand foot green mountain slopes rising out of a crashing blue ocean typify the Na Pali Coast. Beaches and volcanic rock outcroppings make up the coastline. Cascading waterfalls, sea caves, arches and wide sandy beaches washed by turquoise waters are the ever-changing view as one passes by. This paddle reminds me why I kayak. It also reminds me why I prefer coastal paddles to open crossings. The beauty was breathtaking!
Much to my surprise and delight John and Guava would allow us to venture into big water caves, through arches and around surf pounded rock outcroppings. Still nobody dumped. They seemed to have a very firm grasp of what the non-paddlers could and could not handle. This was too good to be true. Surely some disaster awaited the group.
The ocean and wind also cooperated. A small breaker washed over our quarterdeck once in awhile, but the water was so warm, we didn’t even break cadence. A swell was moving from north to west, giving us a slight push toward our first and only stop. After four hours of paddling and playing, we arrived at a great beach for lunch. The facilities were rustic and meant for boaters landing here. Facilities included picnic tables under shade structures, a pottie, fresh water and even an outdoor shower. We were joined here by two female outfitters from Kayak Kauai who had launched earlier.
John and Guava pulled out our lunches and laid out a deli quality lunch of hearty sandwiches and cold beverages. The food was superb, or was it that we were just so hungry? No matter, the homemade monster chocolate chip cookies were awesome! The lunch stop included a nice hour and a half rest period. People hiked to a waterfall, swam, snorkeled, beachcombed or found a shady spot to lie down out of the intense sun.
When the time came to re-launch, a bit of surf had kicked up and I thought, "OK, now were in for some real fun with these newbies." Once again however, John and Guava would slide (bobsled style) the fully manned kayaks down the sand and into the water with a hearty "kick-start". Their timing of waves was perfect. Drat. I wanted somebody to get wet. Everyone got out and nobody went swimming. I learned a lot from watching their technique. It worked so well!
It was only an hour and a half more paddling. We had seen huge green sea turtles, spinner dolphins, monk seals, tropical fish and all sorts of sea birds on our 18-mile trek. Much of the credit can go to a cooperative ocean and our two guides. We could see our final destination in sight. A wide sandy beach with some huge rolling waves breaking about 30 yards from shore. Wahoo! This was going to be a perfect ending to a perfect day. I couldn’t wait to see people surfing these bulky doubles on some four foot waves. Guava paddled in first and directed traffic via VHF radio with John. He would signal one boat at a time to land versus the "storming Normandy" approach. He would stand waist high in the warm water and catch each boat. Once captured, he would run and push it to shore, safe from further beach break waves. I couldn’t believe it. Once again nobody got wet!
We showered off and climbed back into the van after everyone pitched in loading boats and gear onto the trailer. We were now completely on the other side of Kauai. The dry side I learned. We had gone from the wettest side of the Island to the driest. The scenery constanly changed with the annual rainfall amounts, which kept things interesting. I was tired but invigorated by what we had just accomplished. A fine paddle indeed! We stopped for some cold beverages.
If you plan to visit Kauai, you have to paddle the Na Pali Coast with "Kayak Kauai". They can be reached at 808-825-9844 or online at info@kayakkauai.com. My thanks to John and Guava for such a well orchestrated paddle. Bravo gentlemen!
MarkDates: July 1 and July 4, 2001
Mark Brodeur's description is almost identical to my experience and I'll try not to be redundant with his report. However, I paddled with Outfitters Kauai, which uses the Ocean Kayak Cabo sit-on-top with rudder (I tried to book with the putfitter using the sit insides, but "no room a the inn"). I am used to a closed deck boat (Necky Narpa) and was a little leery of an 18 mile trip with inexperienced paddlers (other than the guides I was the only experienced paddler in a group of 11 sans guides). Not a problem --- however the weather was unusually calm. No wind to speak of (even when we could have used the "push") and the seas were almost glass like. My experience with the sea life ("spinner" dolphins, turtles, colorful fish, etc.) was identical with that of Mark Brodeur and will not repeat his excellent, true-to-life recounting. The trip is a "don't miss," once in a lifetime experience.
The Cabos are just fine for this trip -- in fact it was probably the boat of choice (at least for our day) because of the ease of entry into the water and re-entry after many dips along the way to "cool off." Our guides were top notch -- carefully covering safety measures, basic paddling techniques, etc. The season is now over until the middle Sspring (the North to Northwest shore of Kauai gets big swells from late Fall to Spring from storms in the Gulf of Alaska). But I repeat -- don't miss this one -- it's worth every penny and then some of the cost. An underwater camera (any camera) is a must!!
I also highly recommend renting a Kayak from one of the ubiquitous
rental stands on the island and paddling up the Wailua River. (Be as
selective as you can -- the condition of the boats varies greatly by
outfitter and you'll want to avoid the more popular Cobra Kayaks; we
used older Ocean Kayak Zest Two's and they worked great.) Great hikes to
waterfalls, picnicking, and I and my sons (12 and 15) enjoyed cliff
diving from cliffs north of the Fern Grotto. Paddle all the way as far
as you can up river until the rapids start. Turn around and it's a fun
trip downstream. But start and return early -- the late afternoon wind
wants to blow you upstream as you are trying to paddle East back to the
Ocean and the put-in.
Deloris Mayuga
I know I am biased as Mrs.Horodowich, but the trip Wayne has put together is magical and one you will never forget! He will share his love and knowledge of the Hawaiian culture and it's history while you paddle and hike this beautiful, secluded coast.
If anyone is interested, please check out the University of Sea Kayaking site at www.useakayak.org. The upcoming June 13-23, 2002 trip itinerary is listed, in addition to some beautiful pictures from previous trips under "Paddle Hawaii"