YouŽll receive my report next week.
I had to do some left bracing practice to be prepared because two weeks ago
I was forced to taste the Gulf of Mexico salty water in the beach of
Chachalacas, Veracruz where I took my family on vacation. The reason is
that there had been a storm and wind was blowing form the northeast growing
in intensity constantly. My family walked to the sand dunes following the
sandy beach and I followed them on my kayak. I launched and waves were
still OK, 2-3- feet continuous one after another in relatively closed packs.
Once out of the breaking zone waves were coming towards me in front and on
my right side. There were few white caps. Some minutes later and after
about a mile staying away from the break zone but paddling parallel to the
beach waves were reaching 4 feet and I could climb them with no difficulty.
Once lined up with the dunes I entered the beach trying to paddle behind
the waves but then I could not resist surfing a couple of 4 feet ones. I
did great, my wife was ready with the camera, suddenly I broached on my
right side and braced (never had problems with my right brace, maybe
because of so much rolling practice on that side), then I picked up speed
again and ruddered nicely with my paddle and picked up some nice speed,
lost concentration and suddenly I was capsizing on my left side, prepared
my roll, came out nicely and continued to the beach where I exited my kayak
and went to watch the kids at the dunes.
The problem is that the played for about and hour and wind kept on coming
and waves starting farther away were coming bigger and bigger. White caps
were all over the place. I didnŽt want to carry my kayak back over my
shoulder so I was launching again as they started walking back to the car.
I managed the first two soups Ok and then started punching on larger waves that
would cover my whole kayak and body, but I did OK. I remembered my lessons and
pointed the paddle and bow against the wave and made my self as small as possible
and prepared to brace after the encounter. It was not necessary. I did OK. Once
out waves were coming from my back on the left side and some of them looked really
big for my standards. At some times I would climb on them and once way up on the
crest the waves would turn my bow outwards just like a piece of paper. That was
useful because then I would face more directly the next wave. Once I realized
that I was more or less close to be aligned with the car I started approaching
the beach. Waves seemed larger every time but I found out later on, that the bottom
is very uneven, therefore sometimes it is deep and waves are smooth, some times
there is a sand trough and waves form a large vertical wall, not big enough to
break.
With the approach of the first side large wave I braced on żmy left side and was
carried sideways for a while and then I straightened up a little bit with my paddle
and a little bit the wave itself and there I was riding like a master with my
paddle as a rudder on the right side. The wave passed and I decided to continue
parallel to the beach a little bit farther but suddenly near my left shoulder
there is this big green, transparent water wall, taller than my head, just about
to get me. I lift my paddle with a master high brace position, elbows low, etc..
and pierce on the wave and lean on it.
That was that memento of glory anybody wants to have in life. I started riding
totally sideways that big wall in a perfect high brace position and there I stayed
waiting for that magic moment to be recorded on the history of universe since
there was no photographer near by to capture that historical moment. The only
problem is that the wave didnŽt want to cooperate staying in place like when presidents
shake hands and wait for minutes for all the photographers to get their plates.
It continued to pass under me and suddenly I woke up as I was falling sideways
to the water in that perfect high brace position. I felt like the coyote in the
children cartoons, when getting ready to touch toe floor after a half a mile canyon
fall. You know how it is, open big eyes, instinctively mutter the words Oh no...
thinking, after the brace there should be something else.
When I was getting ready to roll another big commotion started and after it
was gone I tried a roll once and failed and felt like out of air so I wet
exited like a pro with the kayak on one hand, the paddle in the other and
the sombrero on my head (I loose them every now and then). I grabbed the
safety line and started assessing my situation considering the possibility
of climbing back up with my paddle float in that messy environment or try a
reentry and roll or just let me drift to shore, when a big wave jerked the
kayak from me and of it went. I tried touching the bottom and I did so I
was at ease. Wind was blowing to the beach and waves were going to the
beach so I should be OK, but after swimming with 5 waves and waiting when
water came back I could not touch the bottom any more. When I was starting
to think about getting worried, the kayak started getting closer or myself
closer to the kayak. I grabbed it and placed it upright and sideways to the
waves grabbing it strongly with both hands from the cockpit. It works
great. I was carried in consistently by every wave that picked up the kayak
with lots of energy. I landed and carried the kayak to the car and I had a
hard time to keep it on the roof to tie it because wind was shifting it.
Lessons learned:
I think I should be
able to handle those waves if my left brace was stronger making it automatic the
hip flick once you want to recover the vertical. Recalling all my capsizes have
been on that side. So I started working on that right away.
Best Regards to all an IŽll tell you how the surffest was in Padre Island.
Rafael Mier Maza